Veterinary Madness

A while ago, my attention was once again drawn to a typically poor article on Not unusually, this is an article about feet and, also not unusual, it is written by a vet and contains citations by other vets.

Many people will obviously start to say that 'the vet will know...' so why criticise - but there lies the crux, the vets clearly don't know. The problem lies in the fact that vets are first and foremost biologists - or at least veterinary education is centred around biology with a fair bit of chemistry thrown in. This does have a sound reason; the daily work of a vet is being involved with biological processes and their associated chemical reactions. The latter being aided or modified by often symptom specific drugs. But the mechanical side of things is much less well represented. Particularly when it comes to the limbs. Veterinary science finds itself still stuck in the Middle Ages with techniques and theories that were not even conceived by vets! And this latest article on just underlines the case once more.

The article How Healthy Horse Hooves Help Arthritic Joints by Nancy S. Loving DVM dates from October 2018.

Dr Loving is aided in her article by comments by Andrew Parks, a university professor of veterinary medicine, and Steve Kraus, farrier and instructor at Cornell University of Veterinary Medicine...this last is typically laughable. To have somebody who advocates the nailing of overweight pieces of metal to an animal's feet being the resident of a university of veterinary medicine should be a major embarrassment.

When offering arthritic horses relief, start from the ground up

The degenerative joint disease arthritis is all too common in active and aging horses. In an effort to slow the progressive deterioration of joint tissue, owners and veterinarians often reach for anti-inflammatory medications and/or regenerative therapies. After all, our goal is to keep these joints comfortable.

One often-overlooked strategy in this effort is hoof care. Certain trimming and shoeing techniques can alter a horse’s limb biomechanics—for better or worse. In this article we’ll discuss how to care for arthritic horses’ hooves for maximum comfort.

As with much of veterinary medicine, this article starts immediately with a treatment rather than with prevention.

If we were to prevent, or at least do what we can to prevent, the onset of a disease –in this case arthritis– then our horses would be in a much more favourable situation. And with many degenerative diseases, prevention or delayed onset is not so difficult to achieve. For the horse, adequate management can mean the difference between a full and comfortable life and a short painful one.

Arthritis is indeed common in active and ageing horses but its roots lie not so much in the age, nor the activity, of the horse but rather its (mis)management. A shod horse is far more likely to develop arthritis than an unshod one, as the article briefly explains. The combination of horseshoes with inappropriate activity will exacerbate the problem and the longer the horse is exposed and thus the older it is, the more severe the problem will become.

The equine world, professional, amateur and veterinary, is very reliant upon the pharmaceutical industry and as the author of the article says, '...owners and veterinarians often reach for anti-inflammatory medications and/or regenerative therapies...'. All too frequently, the anti-inflammatory medication will be one or other proprietary variant of phenylbutazone –a medication so widely abused that if it was in human medicine, a vast number of doctors would have long been struck off the register. Phenylbutazone is indicated exclusively for chronic laminitis.

Quite correctly, the author indicates that hoof-care is an often overlooked strategy. But clearly, even in this early paragraph, has little grasp of the biomechanical consequences of shoeing and trimming.

What Exacerbates Joint Pain?

Arthritic horses try to minimize their joint pain by reducing the load on the affected limb(s) and shortening stride length. “This suggests that pain is associated with the concussion of impact and extreme ranges in motion (ROM),” says Andrew Parks, DVM, Vet MB, MRCVS, Dipl. ACVS, a professor at the University of Georgia’s College of Veterinary Medicine, in Athens.

Professor Parks explains the problem fairly well here. So why can't he follow up on it with a logical, mechanics-related, conclusion?

Force of impact

The limb’s loading rate (deceleration) when the foot lands affects the force of impact on that leg, as can footing type. “The impact of baked clay in summer or frozen ground in winter is quite different from a soft dirt paddock, bedded stall, or engineered arena,” says Parks. “Anything that slows down the rate of deceleration of the foot is likely to decrease the effect of impact. Materials that absorb energy on hoof landing—either from the ground surface or within the shoeing apparatus—also reduce impact.”

This is actually a bit nonsensical. It is rather typical of the biologists reversed view of mechanics!

It is not the loading rate that affects the force of impact on the leg, it is quite the reverse. The force of the impact –kinetic energy– is the product of mass and velocity. The speed with which this force is dissipated is the deceleration. This dissipation of energy will be found on both sides of the impact point (remember Newton's third law: When one body exerts a force on a second body, the second body simultaneously exerts a force equal in magnitude and opposite in direction on the first body.) and, as Professor Parks points out, will be affected by the hardness of the surface landed upon. Where he misses a beat is in his assertion that the shoeing apparatus will reduce impact.

The addition of any extra weight to the distal point of the limb will by its very existence increase the kinetic energy of the limb. So immediately we must build-in yet more absorption to compensate for the extra weight...whereas the foot in its lightest form will be able to work together with the tendons, muscles and leg-articulation to create the optimum absorption of impact.

Range of motion

You’re probably already familiar with this concept: Your veterinarian maximizes a joint’s range of motion when he or she performs a diagnostic flexion test to pinpoint soreness in a painful joint. Excessive flexion or extension/dorsiflexion (backward bending or bowing) can aggravate arthritis.

Owners and farriers should handle arthritic horses’ legs with care. “Check range of motion and flexion ability, and don’t force an arthritic horse to bend or flex its limbs beyond its comfort zone,” says Steve Kraus, CJF, resident farrier and instructor at Cornell University’s College of Veterinary Medicine, in Ithaca, New York. “Use of a foot stand (when trimming or shoeing) keeps hind limbs low and supports the front legs to provide better comfort for both horse and farrier.”

To modify or limit range of motion extremes in locomotion, Parks recommends farriers help the foot lift and roll over (called breakover) more easily. “This may mean not only rolling the toe but also the whole perimeter of the shoe and even the heels,” he says. The easier it is for the horse to lift his heels off the ground, the less dorsiflexion the foot will experience at breakover.

Kraus is right, the limb should not be flexed beyond the comfort zone – ever. It is one of the frequent tests when purchasing a horse to flex the leg and hold it in position. If the horse then limps, there is supposedly something wrong (...but you try walking after forcing your leg into an uncomfortable position for any length of time!).

This is all sound common sense - apart from '...rolling the shoe...' We don't need a shoe; in fact, we MUST NOT shoe – even less so in an arthritic horse. The shoe will by definition add length and depth to the hoof; this in itself exacerbates the problem demanding rolling of the shoe. Losing the shoe removes this and all other problems in one fell swoop – and if the horse is still having 'rollover' problems, then there are two solutions: walk the horse on hard –preferably even– surfaces for a short while every day or, if that is too much effort, add a so-called 'Mustang roll' (or simply trim the toe shorter).

Acutely imbalanced horse hoof


Hoof balance is key to keeping an arthritic horse comfortable. Create a more level landing surface by picking out gravel and other debris from hooves daily. Have the feet trimmed every four to seven weeks (depending on hoof growth rate) to help balance the hooves and reduce the horse’s risk of developing long toes and collapsed heels, which can make him more likely to stumble.

“Farriers can manage the hoof capsule with trimming and shoeing to provide proper limb alignment so that forces are distributed equally through the joints,” says Kraus.

If a foot is acutely imbalanced (say, for example, one side has been wedged or trimmed shorter than the other), the joint on the elevated side of the hoof will narrow—something that’s visible on radiographs (X rays) taken immediately following this practice. “However,” says Parks, “if you look at feet with obvious (chronic) coronary band asymmetry and hoof imbalance, an interesting finding is that the imbalance in the joint space usually is not evident on radiographic images.”

This compensatory phenomenon is related to the coffin bone’s movement relative to the hoof capsule. The hoof’s growth rate also changes, slowing on the side experiencing the greater load.

Parks reminds us that the same principles that encourage bone remodeling might also apply to other tissues. Overloading on one side of the hoof might, in fact, slow the rate of cell replication in the coronary band on that side.

“If the hoof wall is imbalanced side-to-side (uneven hoof wall height between medial and lateral—inner and outer—sides), then theoretically, unequal overload stresses can create degenerative joint disease (DJD),” says Parks. “However, a horse’s natural compensatory hoof mechanisms tend to minimize changes within the joints. You may have appreciated how quickly the hoof capsule changes shape once a horse shoe is removed—usually within 24 to 48 hours.”

That said, he points out that if mediolateral imbalance within the foot’s internal structures persists, a horse can develop DJD. Uneven forces place undue pressure on joint components, especially cartilage, which can then create or exacerbate joint deterioration and arthritis, adds Kraus.

Genetics and/or inappropriate trimming can also create dorsopalmar (front to back) imbalances, which affect the hoof-pastern axis (when correct, the front hoof wall should be parallel to the pastern angle).

Here we descend into the mythical world created by the farrier and carried on by many a barefoot 'specialist'.

Kraus' claim that 'farriers can manage the hoof provide proper limb alignment...' is typical of the bilge peddled by this dubious profession and, sadly, believed in all sincerity by a poorly educated veterinary community. There is absolutely NO WAY that a farrier or a barefoot 'specialist' will ever be able to sight up a hoof and limb and 'correct' or 'compensate' for so-called imbalance. For a start, a study some years ago –sadly now lost to the mists of time– showed that farriers were incapable of reproducing treatment during successive visits in around 80% of cases. This is not at all surprising since the hoof is a dynamic structure that the farrier 'analyses' in a static situation; the problem is further exacerbated by already present shoes, where applicable, and by the absence of knowledge of what exactly is the horse's conformation.

Even X-ray photographs cannot give an accurate representation since the foot and leg is always in an 'artificial' situation – the horse will never be standing in absolutely perfect balance. Furthermore, as most veterinary surgeons will tell you, often that which is causing pain or discomfort is that which cannot be seen on the X-ray.

In the end, only the horse can correct its stance and its foot conformation. The easiest way to achieve this is to simply trim the hoof adequately and allow the horse to walk on a hard surface like concrete or tarmac to achieve its own personal 'balance'.

Long Term Imbalance

When trimming and shoeing for balance, one of the farrier’s main goals is to make sure the foot is placed properly beneath the skeletal column, says Kraus. “Caudal (rear) heel support relies on supporting the heels in their proper location beneath the leg,” he says. “This support is important to minimizing arthritic discomfort. As the hoof first strikes the ground, the heels act as a fulcrum. If positioned too far forward under the limb, the leg tends to rock backward on that point of the heels. The horse must exert muscular force to overcome this, which strains the joints. Proper heel support requires trimming the hoof to the widest, highest, rearmost area of the frog. If that cannot be done, it is possible to provide support with shoeing.”

To align the heel properly, farriers usually fit the horse with an appropriately sized shoe that increases the hoof wall’s surface area contact with the ground, says Kraus. This prevents rocking back on the heels or sinking into soft ground, either of which stress joints whether they’re arthritic or healthy.

Farriers might apply egg bar shoes to horses with low-angled, underrun heels, says Kraus. “Caudal heel support from the bars (found at the rearward ends of the hoof wall) reduces backward sinking of the hoof, while also providing a greater bearing surface to spread out the horse’s weight,” he says.

Parks says elevating the heels has been shown to alter the distribution of pressure in the coffin joint, which could potentially increase wear and tear.

“The ideal relationship between the pastern and the hoof is when the dorsal (front) wall of the hoof is parallel to the dorsal pastern, and if the foot is trimmed so that this relationship is not parallel, it has the potential to increase the overall force on the foot during the course of the stride,” says Parks. “Additionally, a long toe increases the lever arm at breakover, which increases the force required to lift the heels off the ground. These phenomena exacerbate arthritic pain in the distal (lower) joints.”

Kraus adds that when horses strain to move their lower limbs and break over a long toe, they can aggravate low or high ringbone (coffin or pastern joint ­arthritis).

Once again, the farrier descends into nonsensical theorising. Talk of '...aligning the heel properly...' and '[applying] egg bar shoes to horses with low-angled, underrun heels...' just goes to show how far from reality these people are. As already explained above, the farrier –indeed, any external agent– will never be in a position to 'align the heel properly'. Anybody claiming this is a fraud and if you believe him, you are doing yourself an injustice. Three years of farriers' school, even with a nice diploma at the end, is not an indication of competence; it is an indication that someone is trained in middle-age thinking and practices.

Underrun heels need to be treated, not compensated for. They need correctly trimming to remove the underrun, not the addition of egg-bars to raise the caudal section of the P3. This is nothing more than bone-idleness on the part of the profession and ignorance on the part of the individual farrier.

Smart Trimming & Shoeing Techniques

Backing up the toes

Many farriers attempt to correct a long-toe, low-heel hoof configuration by setting the shoe back at the toe. While Parks says this improves breakover for the short-term, leaving the toe hanging too far over the toe of the shoe means the wall at the toe is not in direct contact with the shoe. Therefore, it receives less mechanical stimulation than the wall that is in direct contact with the shoe from the toe-quarter junction (pillars) to the heels. “This affects the way the wall grows,” he says, reminding us that the wall under greater stress will grow slower and vice versa. “Biofeedback tries to restore a previous state,” he says.

Kraus says farriers often apply rocker or rolled toe shoes to horses with arthritic conditions. “These shoes artificially shorten the distance and, hence, the ­leverage in front of the center of rotation on the foot beyond what can safely be trimmed away,” he says. “Sound, properly trimmed horses need normal toe length for optimum propulsion, but horses with arthritis in their lower joints do better with less-than-normal leverage (i.e., shorter toes).”

Parks says he’s a fan of rocker and roller shoes but warns against removing too much dorsal hoof wall in the shoeing process. “If the farrier uses a rasp to gradually thin the wall at the toe, it may not change hoof wall growth, provided enough stiff wall (the outer one-third to one-half of the wall) is left in contact with the shoe,” he says. “In contrast, if the toe wall is chopped away at a 45-degree angle, while this may ease breakover so that the dorsal wall isn’t in contact with the shoe, it isn’t under as much stress as the adjacent wall. Therefore, on the reasonable assumption that wall under less stress grows faster, the toe will outgrow the adjacent wall, thus changing the conformation of the foot, which may add to arthritic pain.”

One thing that we can clearly add is that the hoof wall is NOT the weight-bearing structure of the foot. It is therefore of little importance where the shoe is affixed, forward, backward, it will always be in the wrong place, transferring the weight of the horse to the hoof wall and thus through the delicate laminae which can easily be demonstrated as not being designed for such use.

The growth of the hoof wall is not slowed but rather stimulated by 'stress' or, as it can also be termed, 'use'. This is readily demonstrable in any horse that has the good luck to be barefoot; intense use does not wear down the hoof but rather stimulates its growth. Again, a farrier's fable that the unshod horse will wear its hoofs out working on hard surfaces.

With arthritic horses, it’s a delicate balance between slip and grip.

Steve Kraus, CJF

Protecting the hind limb

Most shoeing practices only have a direct effect on the lowest limb joints—the coffin and pastern joints. However, farriers do attempt shoeing strategies to influence higher joints, such as using lateral extensions or egg bar shoes on the rear hooves of horses with distal hock arthritis (bone spavin). Kraus says a lateral hind shoe extension provides support to prevent a base-­narrow horse’s hocks from rotating outward, while an egg bar shoe might reduce excessive hinge motion that otherwise stresses hock joints.

Study results, however, show that neither rear-foot lateral extensions nor egg bar shoes have a significant effect on stabilizing affected hock joints.

Then there are trailers (or caulks) on hind shoes, which some veterinarians and farriers argue against using because they can cause a foot to stick and torque the joints. Their use, however, often depends on the equestrian activity and terrain conditions.

It can be very regularly demonstrated that the shod horse suffers from shoeing right up the legs and into the shoulders, the hips and ultimately the back. Therefore it cannot be said that the application of shoes does not just affect the distal structures. Just as Kraus declares that there is little result shown in shoeing for proximal structure problems, it should be clear that the addition of shoes will sooner be detrimental – to give him the benefit of the doubt, we could say that any envisaged amelioration will be cancelled out by detriment!

Caulks, trailers, studs –whatever name you might want to use– are always going to turn an already damaging situation into a potential disaster. As stated in the article, the possibility of sticking and 'torquing' –spraining– joints brings some veterinary surgeons and farriers, quite rightly, to argue against their use. The final statement rather clinches it though: '[their use] often depends on the equestrian activity and terrain conditions'. We are talking arthritic horses here. We should be adapting our activities to the condition of the horse, not trying to prop it up to get it through next year's equestrian calendar. This is welfare at its lowest – the needs of the rider always seem to go before the needs of the horse. And to say that all this –actually worthless– treatment is for the horse's welfare, is pulling the wool over everyone's eyes, the rider's included. 

Applying pads

Traditionally, farriers have applied pads beneath shoes to provide sole protection and shock absorption. Kraus says that in his experience, polyurethane pads provide limited shock absorption and are better suited simply for sole protection. Leather pads do improve shock absorption but deteriorate over time, he says.

“Some synthetic pads are designed to absorb shock; however, with only 1/8-inch of material on a 1,000-pound (or more) horse, how much shock can really be absorbed?” he says. “A pour-in pad or packing a shoe with synthetic gel may be a better option to achieve shock absorption” for arthritic horses. These materials conform to the sole and frog for a more uniform distribution of shock absorption throughout the hoof.

Anything applied to the bottom of the foot is, first and foremost, detrimental to the locomotion of the horse creating an imbalance in movement and moment, raising the heart-rate above normal –partially due to the severe reduction in the hoof-mechanism– increasing the effort exerted for every step.

As the article states, pads have been applied traditionally to provide shock absorption – except generally, they don't. And in any case, the foot is designed to carry the weight of the horse and, more importantly, to cope with the enormous amounts of kinetic energy generated. It is often argued that the horse is not designed to carry riders, which is true, therefore we must 'protect the hoof' against this extra weight. In reality, a horse weighing 500kg will generate almost the same amount of kinetic energy at 16m/s (full gallop) as a 500kg horse with 70kg of rider and tack at 15m/s. The arthritic horses will not –or should not– often be achieving such speeds therefore we should be able to consider that he is already equipped with all the shock absorption he will ever need. And the first point of shock absorption is the frog. Shoeing the horse removes almost all function of the frog and it is not by any means unusual to find this structure almost completely atrophied in the shod horse. 

Considering shoe weight and type

Any type of shoe on a horse’s foot adds weight that the animal must lift from the ground at breakover. To reduce shoe weight, try applying aluminum shoes, which are one-third the weight of steel, says Kraus. “Or, an alternative to bar shoes is the Myron McLane pad that includes frog and heel support,” he says. Wide web shoes are another support option and weigh less than egg bar shoes.

Synthetic shoes—nonmetal or a metal composite with nonmetal materials—absorb the most shock. You can choose from many types of those shoes, both nail-on and glue-on. Remember, however, that plastic materials can be slippery on wet grass or ice and might wear more quickly than steel shoes. “With arthritic horses, it’s a delicate balance between slip and grip,” says Kraus.

'Try aluminium shoes to reduce weight...they are a third of the weight of steel' – but they still increase the distal mass by around 50%. This is still a locomotive impediment. And worse still, the weight of the horse is still being moved out onto the non weight-bearing structures: the hoof wall and the laminae, and the impact concussion is not being absorbed but rather amplified (there are numerous videos on the internet which show exactly how this amplification makes itself visible).

Barefoot or Shod?

“Leaving a horse barefoot is generally good, particularly in a nonperforming horse with arthritis,” says Parks. “In most cases, the unshod hoof capsule provides the best damping to assimilate the shock of foot impact. And, a barefoot horse is able to ‘roll’ its own hooves through natural abrasion.”

“When barefoot arthritic horses wear their hooves to their comfort level, this shouldn’t be confused with conformational defects that often wear the hoof in the opposite direction than the horse needs,” says Kraus. However, “barefoot horses with thin soles may become sore-footed and then alter their gait in such a way to strain arthritic joints.”

Still, barefoot advantages might outweigh disadvantages to help curb arthritic pain, and owners can apply hoof boots for riding or navigating rough terrain, if needed. Our sources recommend using a lightweight boot with built-in breakover and adding a viscoelastic pad inside.

There is no question here – the horse should never be shod, arthritic or not. The idea that the horse will get out of its comfort zone implies that we are doing too much with the horse.

Take-Home Message

Before making trimming and shoeing changes, have your veterinarian perform a thorough diagnostic work-up of your horse’s lameness problem. Ask him or her take radiographs to visualize the angles of internal hoof structures, the extent of osteoarthritis in a joint, and the depth of sole a farrier has to work with.

“Shoeing methods for arthritic horses ideally incorporate ways to transfer motion to the ground instead of to painful joints,” says Kraus.

“Shoes modified properly to help with arthritic problems may be a more permanent way to manage some horses with arthritis,” says Parks. “Trimming and shoeing practices are useful adjuncts to multitreatment modalities that include joint injections, non-steroidal anti-­inflammatories, IRAP (interleukin-1 receptor antagonist protein), and in some cases regenerative therapies.”

There is no single trimming or shoeing recipe that farriers can apply to every horse. Following basic principles of balancing the foot, easing breakover, supporting the heels, and aligning the hoof-pastern axis provide the best foundation for both normal and arthritic horses.

The take-home message is clear. DO NOT SHOE. The article states that '...[there] is no single trimming or shoeing recipe that farriers can apply to every horse...', but there is. It is impossible to correct or compensate for arthritic problems with either shoes or trimming. But we can give the horse the ability to find its own balance, its own correction or compensation:

Make sure your horse is trimmed regularly and correctly. That means NOT how the farrier will generally trim, after all, the farrier knows how to trim to shoe, but not for the functioning of the locomotor apparatus; his training will not have given him insight into this (although subsequent experience may). Heels down, wall short. If your horse is high-heeled or underrun, then any changes must be made gradually – this applies just as much to the fully fit as to the arthritic horse.

Remember that it is his welfare we should be considering. Shoes are never the solution and if your horse cannot do what you ask barefoot, then you are either asking the wrong thing, or you are not thinking of his welfare. Shoes and welfare never mix. Riders and owners often say that they shoe because they are thinking of the horse's welfare and then ask the horse to do those things which are not going to be good for his health...

Safety Shoes and the Toilet

I regularly get asked what is so bad about horseshoes. And why horses are shod, if horseshoes are really so bad.

To answer the first question, the easiest comparison we can make is that of safety shoes. Imagine that, day in, day out, twenty-four hours a day, you were to wear a pair of safety shoes–initially one size too small but after four or five weeks, they are now two sizes too small… Imagine that you had to do everything in those shoes: sleep, walk, run… Imagine that, after six to eight weeks, you could take those shoes off–for ten minutes, before putting on a new pair, again one size too small.

Now, there are sceptics who will say that this is not completely true and that it is different with horses… Yes, indeed, it isn’t completely true because the safety shoe offers some flexibility in the sole that we don’t see in a horseshoe. The safety shoe gives a degree of support over the whole of the underside of the foot, whereas the horseshoe the shifts the point of support to the nail on the outside of the foot–the frog and the sole are excluded from the equation completely. The safety shoe has a rubber sole which will give some shock absorption while the horseshoe doesn’t give until it reaches a temperature of ±600˚C.

The safety shoe is also put on without the application of heat–the majority of horses are hot-shod and the horseshoe is between 600˚C and 800˚C when the fit is checked. The farrier will tell you that this does not hurt the horse–but why does he wear protective gloves and use large tongs to keep the hot shoe at a distance? The farrier is full of contradictions: this apparently doesn’t hurt because the hoof is thick…but the horse cannot go without horseshoes because the hoof is too thin!

Why do we do this then?

Simply because the majority of horses still live in a toilet. In the era of the military horse, in order to be at the ready all of the time, horses were kept in stables–searching for and catching a horse in the field is not conducive to a rapid deployment. But, stabled, they are standing for hours on end in their own excrement–an acidic environment very damaging to the bare hoof. And then some bright spark came up with the idea that a lump of metal under the hoof might help, and so the horseshoe was born. With, as added bonus, the horse no longer felt the ground under its feet and so took no care how or where he walked. Many horses died young through serious injury but for the military, that did not pose a problem; there were always other horses available or they could be appropriated and the dead horse was sent to the canteen to feed the troops.

Meanwhile, the last real war-horses fought their last battles around a century ago and yet we still continue to use horseshoes. The reasons are long forgotten and the military vision of the horse is far behind us–and yet, we still find it necessary to lock our horses up in the toilet and to treat them in a military fashion.

‘But it isn’t as bad as all that…’

What, because the stables are mucked out every day? Just think about it–a horse poos, on average, 10-15 times a day. The number of time is pees is also quite considerable. Mucking out just once a day, even for a horse that spends a couple of hours turned out–and in the winter this is often not allowed–this is simply not enough. And we haven’t even got to the psychological maltreatment that incarceration means.

‘But he’s on horseshoes…’

Have you really not understood a word that has been said? And horseshoes are not the solution for a stabled horse in any case; there will always be muck that gets between the hoof and the horseshoe. Muck that slowly eats away at the hoof wall, muck under the sole, in the grooves at the side of the frog and on the frog itself.

The only place for a horse is outside and the only protection it needs for its feet is the hoof itself. The hoof is to a greater extent self-cleaning, self-regulating–given enough activity–and has been developed over millions of years…unlike the several hundred for the horseshoe.

‘But my horse is a thoroughbred and it is well known that thoroughbreds have poor hoofs…’ Undoubtedly poor breeding management…no? No, the truth is that thoroughbreds, in contrast with ponies, are almost always shod from an early age and so, from an early age, have poor hoofs. Give them the chance and they will improve.

And finally, for those who say their horse really asks to return to the toilet to the stable every evening:

Horses do not ask to go into their stables. Horses are not happier in a stable. That is the human vision of the world (we like a warm, cosy house with a soft bed, therefore so do our pets). ‘But he asks to come in every evening by parading back and forth in the field…’ Study the behaviour of horses (this is called ethology) and you will see that almost all horses start to wander, to parade up and down, to play ‘follow-the-leader’ when evening falls, when the light begins to fail. Even the horses that have never known a stable…



First published on 2 May 2017 on the Dutch sister site

When are “Good Feet” really “Bad Feet”?

In my line of work, it is nigh on impossible to avoid visiting a stable or livery yard every now and again. And although I am almost always visiting to tend my unshod horse-clients, I cannot help but notice just one or two of the stablemates; in particular, their feet!

Unfortunately, it is tactically unethical to take photos of these hoofs, therefore I have restricted the images to one basic photo with annotation – hopefully just this one hoof will be clear enough!

Shod hoof

Fig. 1 The hoof without annotation


In this first photograph fig. 1, try to discern the actual outline of this hoof – the photograph is has been taken almost at right angles to the hoof.  Don’t cheat by scrolling down to look at the next image 🙂













Shod hoof - perceived heel height

Fig. 2 This is the perceived heel height – compare it with the next photo


So, here in fig. 2 we see the same hoof but now I have added a little annotation to help you. We can now clearly see an outline around the visible hoof and, as the orange lines show, this looks like a hoof with the oft prescribed low heels.

At a recent conformation clinic, this type of hoof was described to me as being one with low heels since you can see the distance between the coronary band at the back and the ground is quite small.






Shod hoof - actual heel height

Fig. 3 Here the actual height of the heels is demonstrated


OK. Same hoof, but here in fig. 3 a different annotation; this is the actual outline of the hoof. Compare it with the perceived outline in fig. 2 above and have another look at fig. 1 the original photo to see just what we have annotated here.

In this annotation it is very clear that the actual contact point of the heel is much further forward than the perceived point shown above. The apparent height of the heel seems little changed but if we look at the actual height indicated by the orange lines, then we see that the heels are in fact high.






Shod hoof - desired form

Fig. 4 The form the hoof should have


In fig. 4 we see the low heels again – but no longer on a perceived level but rather on the more ideal line of the hoof; the toe is now much shorter and although it may not become quite as flat as it appears here, the coronet should also flatten out a little if the shoes are removed.

So, just what is wrong with the heels in these photos? After all, a farrier has shod them and has obviously felt they were good enough.


Essentially, the whole weight-bearing structure of the foot has been moved forwards by – in this case – roughly 15 millimetres. If we consider the point at which the hoof is hinged with the rest of the leg, we see firstly that the weight is being carried further back than is intended and, secondly, that the length of the hoof at the toe creates a longer roll moment increasing effort – and stress – with every step.



Hoof - weight-bearing and rollover points

Fig. 5 The weight-bearing line and the rollover moments of the unshod (green) and shod (red) hoof


Here in fig. 5, the blue line () shows the centre of the weight-bearing axis and we can clearly see the extra length in the moment of the shod hoof (x) compared with that of the unshod hoof (). This extra moment costs energy and effort; although not exactly the same, you can experience the difference by lifting the end of a pole one metre long and lifting the end of one 1½ metres long. The lengths used in the analogy are not synonymous with that of the hoof but remember, the horse is rolling ±150kg over its front hoofs – with every step!

If you are wondering why the green line does not reach front of the hoof wall, the answer is simple – when the hoof is correctly trimmed (or even allowed to wear naturally), the edge of the hoof is rounded bringing the rollover point back from edge of the front wall.

If we look further at the hoof, we see yet more evidence of farrier-damage. There are holes all around the outside wall from previous shoeing and these are allied to a crumbling lower edge. It is often – quite incorrectly – said that a horse needs shoeing because it has brittle hoofs. The real case is that a horse has brittle hoofs because it is shod. No amount of care, attention and biotin is going to protect a hoof from degrading if someone has hammered nails into it. This fact is frequently overlooked or even blatantly denied by proponents of shoeing; but how is it possible that when a hoof has been given a chance to develop in a nature conscious way, that this sort of damage is never evident, compared with presence in the majority of shod horses.

Very frequently a clear bulbous coronet is visible – this is often masked in two-dimensional photographs by the hair around the coronet, as is the case here. This bulbous form is caused essentially by the incorrect distribution of weight in the periphery of the hoof. By overloading the hoof wall, the coronet is pushed upwards and distorted – sometimes very severely.

V behind hoof

Fig. 6 A V-shape below the heel bulbs caused by forces from the horse shoes.

Flatter form of unshod hoof

Fig. 7 Much flatter form of the unshod hoof (this horse has never been shod)


We can also see a V shape under the heel bulbs caused by this same abnormal pressure. Compare the photographs left and right: the horse in fig. 6 has a clear V shape whereas the horse in fig. 7 the V is much flatter – almost to the point of being non-existent. The horse in fig. 7 is 8 years old and has never been shod; the horse in the other photographs is 10 years old and has been shod since before he was bought by his present owners when he was just 3 years old.







It is very important to note here that “bad feet” are NOT a result of breed, lineage or other genetic factors – although this can very occasionally play some role – but rather the effects of shoeing allied to being kept in a box or stable and in almost all cases exacerbated by bad feeding practices. Stabling a horse restricts its movement – a horse should be able to cover 12 – 18km per day – and forces it to stand for hours on end in its own excreta which seeps between the shoe and the hoof creating an ideal, airless environment for destructive bacteria to survive. Most (stabled) horses are fed two or three times a day, a mixture of grains and cereals – products ideal for mice and birds but certainly not for the digestive system of the horse – and only have limited access to raw hay/grass and other herbs which form 100% of the dietary requirement. This access to raw foodstuffs should be unrestricted since a horse grazes for a major part of the day – taking between 12 and 16 “meals” in every 24 hours. The horse moves to eat and eats to move – remove this elementary factor and the horse is put straight into an unhealthy situation.

Hoofing to Nature!

We often eulogize about “The Wonders of Nature” but only when we are actually confronted with them do we realize just how amazing they can be.

A few weeks ago I was called out to one of my customers who had just bought an 8 year old horse. The general condition of the horse was not bad but sadly the hoofs were a bit of a worry. Happily, I could see through the damage and knew that with some work we could restore the hoofs to a good condition, albeit over a few months in all likelihood.

Here we see rip-damage to the hoof wall and the remains of shoeing nails (one is still embedded)

Underneath we can see divergence of the hoof wall around the offending horseshoe. The walls are split and worn. Plus points: the fairly stable looking concavity of the sole and a reasonably solid frog.
















Just over four weeks later, I returned to follow-up on the original trim – actually I had already seen the horse 6 days after the first trim and was more or less confronted then with the next images:

This really is the same hoof just 31 days later – check out the markings! There is a little internal damage just on the edge but that will grow out. The holes are now gone and the walls look super healthy.

…and underneath: what a difference. There is a little scoring in the sole but that does not worry me. The frog is still a little ragged but again, no worry; it will tidy itself up.
















As the trimmer, obviously I could take all the credit for this transformation, but that would be totally unfair on Daisy – she as owner has done her utmost to follow up my advice that her horse should be exercised regularly (15 minutes minimum, at least twice a day) over all types of surface. She has done a wonderful job and can certainly show a few owners a thing or two about caring for their horses. Well done Daisy.

Keeping Warm Feet

Horses are, like humans and all other mammals, warm blooded (including the so-called cold-blood breeds). This means that the body’s temperature is regulated internally and not by external influences (the sun).

A direct result of this is the minimal variation in temperature noted over the whole body. Some areas are slightly warmer because of the greater number of blood vessels running close to the surface of the skin; others are slightly cooler because of natural physiological reaction to the cold and the automatic attempt to maintain the core temperature.

The maximum variation in temperature within the body should be no more than about 2°C (on the surface this can be slightly more). This makes the following picture quite alarming:

One shod hoofWe can see a very clear large decrease in temperature in the front right hoof and leg. Clearly the front of the legs is cooler than the rear (where the blood vessels run) and the muscular areas are much warmer; however, we see that the temperature of the hoofs is very close to the temperature of the leg muscles. It is then horrific to note that from the knee downwards the leg with the shod hoof is considerably colder: as cold as the extreme surface of the other legs but then right through to the core.

This is as a result of the closing off of the blood vessels running through the underside of the navicular bone. Raising up the heels – as a result of standard shoeing practices – emulates the part of the pump system that along with the hoof mechanism insures efficient circulation through hoofs and legs. The pump mechanism works by partially closing off the blood vessels and allowing a build-up of pressure; as soon as the vessels are fully opened, the pressure is released by pumping blood through. The problem is that there is no release from this partial emulation; the result is cold legs.

Blood vessels in the hoofWe can see in this next photograph just how concentrated the blood vessels in the hoof are; this means that, by definition, the hoofs should be warm – as shown in the three unshod hoofs in the thermograph above.

These pictures alone should be clear enough evidence that shoeing horses is not only unnecessary but also undesirable and even damaging. I would even go as far as to advocate that it is a form of cruelty since the horse is actually being abused.


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A Heated Discussion

I had a rather heated discussion yesterday with one of my horse-riding students (as opposed to a student of horse-riding).
She was very much of the opinion that a horse needed to be shod to stop the hoofs wearing down too quickly. I didn’t actually ask what she did with her horse that would make the hoofs wear so fast but it was certainly an interesting argument – the front hoofs need shoes but apparently the rear don’t 😕
Now the story continues: her horse apparently does not walk properly – her hoofs grow at something of an angle. The farrier has advised shoeing her to “correct” this problem. The poor girl is under the impression that the farrier knows what he is doing… I’m afraid I cannot subscribe to this idea. A farrier that tries to alter the direction of growth of a hoof by using horseshoes should have his licence taken away; imagine that your feet turn outwards (mine do 🙂 ), any attempt to fix them facing forwards will put extra stress on the knees causing pain and eventually damage. Try it: walk around with your knees turned 30 degrees from straight. Alternatively, fix a thin strip of wood along the outside edge of your shoes and feel how comfortable it is. This will not improve or reset your foot, it will only cause pain and, in the end, damage.

Winter is here (on paper!)

So the winter has begun; well, according to the meteorological calendar, at least. Our weathermen mark the change of seasons on the first day of March, June, September and December – it makes it easier on the statistics than the infinitely variable 19th, 20th, 21st, 22nd or 23rd of the month 😀

Our horses (were talking Northern hemisphere here) have long noticed the shortening days and the cooling off and have equipped themselves with all they need for the winter months – a thick coat. Of course, if you brought the winter blankets out early enough, then the winter coat may not be quite so thick, nevertheless, it is there. And to compensate, some people even go so far as to clip this wonderfully adequate coat so that our horse doesn’t sweat too much – and particularly not under that lovely winter blanket.

As you might guess, the idea of a winter blanket is not one much cherished by Sabots Libres: horses are designed with their own blanket – in fact, it’s a sort of All Weather Protection. The hairs lie in such a configuration as to insure good drainage of both rainwater and sweat. The oft heard cry of not putting your horse out to pasture (or into its stall) when it is still wet, is really a nonsense. Horses in the wild will exert themselves and then stand around, sweaty, in the wind, without a care in the world – and they don’t catch cold! And I dare you to try this one – put your horse out to pasture for 24 hours when there is a thick layer of snow on the ground and a cutting wind; make sure there is some shelter for the worst moments, but when you come back the next day, have a look where your horse has been in the past day (should be easy with the footprints in the snow) and the chances are that he has wandered around in the snow a bit and at some stage made a bed in it; chances are the shelter is unused.

And on the subject of cold – when we get to the final stages of hypothermia, we shiver (uncontrollably). A horse does not get that far: it shivers very early on not because it is getting too cold but to keep its temperature up. If it is not successful, then there is a whole barrage of tricks for keeping warm – not least of which, eating. But also by shutting off circulation to the legs, temporarily; closing down the surface capilary-structures for periods of time and simply by erecting the coat and thus trapping a layer of highly insulating air. This last solution is obviously seriously hampered by the use of a winter blanket and it is almost certain that a horse with winter blanket will be colder than one without.

Even if you are not (yet) convinced about blankets, now is a good time to seriously consider removing those horseshoes once and for all. Although the reports of doom are much overplayed (-23˚C could happen but not in the way nor with the certainty that the doommongers will have us believe), the chance of snow is still reasonably high. And snow combines badly with horseshoes.
Being metal (in most cases), the shoe will rapidly take on the temperature of its surroundings – the snow – and will become an ideal surface for ice to form. This ice then conglomerates to eventually become one large chunk of ice within the periphery of the shoe. As the horse continues to move over the snow, this chunk of ice grows even further but now also downwards creating a high unstable and dangerous surface for the horse to walk upon.

Additionally, with shoes, the horse is unable to properly feel and assess the surface upon which he is walking and although under some circumstances, he may appear to be afforded more traction, the net result is one of much increased chance of injury. It is therefore advisable to remove the shoes now, before the winter really sets in, and when the spring comes, leave the shoes off! Your horse really does not need them.

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